OleHenrik90

åja ! Skjønner! men kan du forklare hva haltechen egentlig gjør? For jeg er litt usikker! og gidder du linke de bildene rett til photobucket? For de funka ikke her!

Jeg begynner å tro jeg er dum Mente du nå at jeg skulle ha 3 org dyser og 1 cossie dyse og haltech F5? Når det gjelder montering av s2 dyser så skal jeg lese den klistra saken nå =)

Vil det være nok med originale dyser hvis jeg skal ha 200-250HK a? Vil haltech og org dyser være en bra combo med en t3 cossie turbo? cossie turbo = hk?

Nå ble det veldig mye Men rett meg hvis jeg har feil! Hvis jeg skal montere turbo på en IS med mål på ca 200-250hk... trenger jeg følgende: *Større dyser (s2 dyser + ?) *Turbo av type? + liten IC *Haltech f5? *Noe mer som man må kjøpe? Handleliste blir godt modtatt:D

så det er forskjell på datasprut og de haltech greiene? det var noe sånn som haltech jeg tenkte på Ligger de på ca 3000-5000? og hva gjør de egentlig? Trenger man det hvis man skal ha ca 220+ hk?

noen som har peiling på datasprut(?) som passer til ca 200-220 hk? Trenger man datasprut da? vel. tips om hva man trenger for IST prosjekt med ca 220hk med turbo

Sniker meg innom her! Noen som vet hvor store dyser som originalt sitter på IS motoren? og hvor store man trenger hvis målet er ca 200-220 HK? =)

Prøve å finne mer specs? Høres megent intressant ut Så en flowbenk test hadde ikke vært dumt?

Har sett noen karer som har tatt ut nesten 200 av pinton. hvordan gjør de detta?

Noen som vet om lesestoff om denne motoren? 2Liter IS motor. Lurer blandt annet på litt hvilken blokk dette er? og hvilken kasse som passer på den?. Er det en type9 kasse eller en MT75? Hvis noen har noen bøker, linker og anbefalle så si gjerne ifra

Når det gjelder registrering og godkjenning av en IST motor i en 1992 Ford Sierra tidligere 2.0 CLX, hvordan går dette?

Sliter allerede med økkonomien, men mååå ha noe å drive med så feriepenger osv går nok med til prosjekt motor Kanskje det blir en anna bil senere ettersom den jeg har nå er litt rusten!

vel, leter etter ett prosjekt å surre med i sommer Er ett ist prosjekt noe å satse på? =)

Får man tak i komplett is motor med komplett elnett a? Sånn at det liksom er bare å røske ut alt som er inni der og døtte neddi det nye?

men det går ann å ordne? =) takk for alle svar

Passer en ohc inn i en dohc 1993 sierra? Er en is vanskelig å få tak i? Er is med injection?

Lurte på ett par ting: 1. Hvor mye går en ohc motor for? (standard) 2. Hvilken ohc motor er best egnet for turbokonvertering? Mvh Ole H

Så nesten uansett hvordan man lager det hvis man prøver å følge "teorien" så vil man kunne oppnå en effektøkning? =)

Drevet å søkt mye rundt i det siste etter guides om grenrør og sånt så tenkte noen kanskje fikk bruk for det

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_header_length1.html http://www.carcraft.com/howto/0304_head/index2.html http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...rs/index2.html http://store.racing-solutions.org/ http://www.bankspower.com/Banks_FridayNight_040502.cfm http://store.summitracing.com/largei...rt=HOK-2956HKR http://www.secureperformanceorder.co...ProductID=5350 http://www.secureperformanceorder.co...&CategoryID=29 http://www.burnsstainless.com/MergeC...ollectors.html http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/flomstr1e.htm http://www.stahlheaders.com/Frame%20Flanges.htm http://www.stansheaders.com/gm_flanges.htm HERES OLD POST ON SUBJECT heres what I do,(keep in mind the exhaust system after the headers effects performance to a large extent too, so Id advise a MINIMUM of an (X) of collector dia. mounted close to the collectors to ballance flow and reduce back pressure if its possiable to install one http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/flomstr1e.htm http://store.summitracing.com/produc...ype=ecat&l=FLO http://www.headersbyed.com/chevsbv8.htm http://www.stainlessworks.net/Header%20Flanges.htm http://www.stahlheaders.com/Frame%20Flanges.htm http://www.headersbyed.com/hdrkits.htm Ive done this many times its not that hard. heres what I do, get some of that plastic smurf tubeing in the 2" dia size and some ceiling hanger wire and some of that hard set constuction insulation foam. now weld 1" stubs of the exhaust tube to the header flange exhaust ports and bolt it to the cylinder heads. clamp the collectors to a 6 foot section of 2x6" wood and jack it up solid under the car (collectors not touching the car anywhere)to position them where you want them under the car, now cut (8) sections of smurf tubeing too about 36"-42" long(theres a formula to figure the exact length)slide 4-6 pieces of ceiling suspension wire in each tube with the ends looped over inside the tube. now startin with the upper inside collector position and the rear exhaust port, bend and fit the smurf tubeing to fit, the next forward exhaust port goes to the lower inside collector port the next exhaust to the upper outside collector port and the furthest forward to the lower outside collector port , once they are all bent to fit shoot the tubes full of hardening construction foam, let it harden and then pull each individual tube off one at a time and duplicate it in steel tubeing,(or have your local muffler shop duplicate it) this method REALLY makes the fit and try time minimal. and assures equal length tube headers.SMURF TUBE is flexable plastic electrical conduit thats normally BLUE or ORANGE and COMMONLY called smurf tubeing by contractors its a plastic version of that metal GREENFIELD tubeing that electrical contractors use but its cheaper and easier to work with, it resembles a canister type vacuum cleaner pickup hose but stiffer, its available at big hardware stores,and electrical supply houses dirt cheap in 10' lengths about $6 each or les you will need (3)BTW the 4-6 wires act like rebar in concrete, the loops keep the wires from moveing in the foam while their incased in the construction foam, the hard plastic foam is what keeps it stiff and no it will not be exact you will still need to tweak it to get it to fit but it will speed up the process of making the tube pattern shapes. just keep in mind that you can buy headers fairly cheaply (under $300 in many cases) for most cars its when you go and get an odd ball combo this comes in handy, like putting a 502bbc in a 57 vette or a 392 hemi in a 63 falcon, or you need headers for a LS1 in you 67 camaroHERES INFO YOU CAN USE http://www.ssheaders.com/header.htm heres a quick way to figure your true primairy tube length (use 1250f degs(950k) and 5000rpm for race cars, 1200 degs(922K) and 3000rpm for street cars ) if you want other temps look here http://www.convertalot.com/downloads.html heres a quick cross check http://www.btinternet.com/~mezportin...st_length.html http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#Header http://www.prestage.com/carmath/calc_headerlength.asp or if your really lazy http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm and the answers in meters (about39"=1 meter) but if you just use 36"-40" it will just move your tuned rpm level up or down slightly, not enough to make much differance except on a very peaky engine combo in a very light car.and this assumes your tube dia. is the same size as your exhaust port size.(never smaller, slightly larger dia. is ok) btw mild steel is much easier to work with than stainless http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/flomstr1e.htm http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SH/WeldUp.html the pipes should be slightly oversized rather than so small that they partially block the exhaust port. a pipe dia. that is small enought to partly block the exhaust port can hurt the cylinder scavageing by causeing turbulance and restrictions at the port exit, while a primary tube size slightly larger than the port leaves a ledge that partly retards returning pressure waves from reduceing the scavageing effect,...USE THE CALCULATOR PROGRAMS THATS WHAT THEY ARE THERE FORand keep in mind the displacement and rpm levels effect the dia. and length of both the primaries and collectors, these MUST VARY IN DIA. and LENGTH TO MATCH THE ENGINES EXHAUST PULSE TIMEING so that a NEGATIVE PRESSURE WAVE WILL BE CORRECTLY TIMED to SCAVAGE THE CYLINDERS EFFICIENTLY at the desired rpm range if you want other temps look here http://www.convertalot.com/downloads.html heres a quick cross check http://www.btinternet.com/~mezportin...st_length.html http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#Header ( (btw its not((Degrees ATDC)they mean subtract the BBDC from 180 degs. then use the answer and the rpm level should be picked for the expected torque peak http://www.prestage.com/carmath/calc_headerlength.asp [ or if your really lazy http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm and the answers in meters (about 39"=1 meter example , my 383 vette has a cam with exhaust cam timing that opens at 83degs bbdc, thats 97 degs atdc, http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/D...1=Display+Card Bore: (Inches) 4.03"<BR>Exhaust Valve Opening Point: (Degrees ATDC) 97 degs Peak Power RPM: 5500rpm Calculated information appears below Header Pipe Diameter: (Inches) 1.84"< Header Pipe Length: (Inches) 37.65 Collector Diameter: (Inches) 3.5 Collector Length: (Inches) 18.82 http://store.yahoo.com/exhaustpros/hustxpi.html http://store.yahoo.com/exhaustpros/magmanbenypi.html http://www.spiralturbobaffles.com/ http://www.secureperformanceorder.co...ore/vortex.cfm http://search.ebay.com/search/search...header+flanges http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/flomstr1e.htm http://www.ssheaders.com/Collectors.htm http://www.burnsstainless.com/MergeC...ollectors.html http://www.cachassisworks.com/header.htm http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SplitFlow.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/Cutaway.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...HHA/HPipe.html http://store.summitracing.com/section.asp?d=8&s=577 btw http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeA...ttubesizes.cfm these should be considered MINIMUMS __________________

Si ifra hvis du får prøvd det i nermeste fremtid da

Ikke dumt! Men da ble vi enige om syl 1 og 4 sammen og 2 og 3?

Har foresten også sett mange som har 1 langt rør fra hver sylinder som går langt ned inn i en collector som samler alle! Hvordan vil dette være? noen som har peiling?

Så ett grenrør hvor syl 1 og 4 går sammen og syl 2 og 3 vil være det optimale? =)

Får ikke dette til å bli logisk i min hode:P vil ikke noe av trykkbølgen rekke å bli borte imellom hver sylinders åpning? sånn at det er best å ha lengst mulig avstand mellom de sylindrene som sprenger etter hverandre? eller er jeg helt på jordet?